Fargo Brook Times, Andean Edition: Pedido de Mano

Our neighbors own a tienda (store) two blocks away, and one to check out the stores in the neighborhood, I patronized it early on. Segundo, the proprietor, his two sons and wife all work there, and we all became quickly acquainted. When I told him of my visa woes early in our feriado, Segundo offered assistance immediately. "Don't worry about it... you worry to much." He knows the mayor of Otavalo and actually drove me to His honor's house on two occasions. Whether the mayor could help me with visas or not was irrelevant; Segundo was willing.

Segundo is a spry man with a quick laugh and an infectious smile. It's almost impossible not to like him immediately. At the store I had many talks with him, his wife, and both sons, Andreas and Orlando. Though very traditional Kichwa, Orlando and I are Facebook friends as well, and when he invited our family to his engagement party, there was no way we were going to turn down the honor.

What follows is a pictorial documentary of Orlando's Pedido de Mano, the formal request for the hand of his novia, or girlfriend, for marriage. The Pedido de Mano is a Kichwa tradition that dates back in the 1,000s of years, though there are plenty of modern updates, including cars, cell-phones, and coca-cola. The prospective groom's family, friends, and neighbors (the whole village in antiquity) packs up a huge load of food and music and marches to the novia's family's house to regale her and her family with gifts.

As always, the pictures look better as a slide show -- click on one to start it. Thanks for looking!

Cuy, or guinea pigs, are a delicacy here, and a big part of the groom's offering to his future inlaws.

This guy was the "puro man" -- later at the dance, he proffered the national liquor to all takers.

Poles are readied for the chickens and the cuy (guinea pigs).

Cavia porcellus, though related to pets in North America is actually more closely related to a wild version native to South America. It is hugely important both historically as a food source and currently ceremonially.

Kerry and Sylvia presenting Segundo some homemade chocolates.

The Andean folkloric music. I assume the fiddle came later. Some groups include a stand-up bass, though mobility is a virtue with these guys.

While working on the cuy string, one was bent on escaping.

Beer, and other beverages, are shared communally in Otavalo (and elsewhere). One guy usually pours into a communal cup. He continues around the circle until the beer (or the people) are exhausted.

This guy was an expert at catching runaway cuy.

The bounty headed for the party. Also included: at least 500 pounds of potatoes.

Oh I wish I'd caught her with eyes open. Otavaleñas are renowned for their beauty, at every age.

Here's the view from the bed of a pickup.

Some 25 people rode in this camioneta.

A dozen chickens on a pole weigh more than you might think.

At one point the cars stopped, and we proceeded on foot. The band led the way.

A car, driven by what I'm guessing was a teenager, tried to pass the procession. When Segundo tried to move everyone over to the side to let the youngster pass, a couple of older gentlemen took him aside. In effect, the translation was this: No, he'll have to respect the procession and the tradition and wait. Segundo saw the sense in this. The musicians played on, and we danced. The guy in the car waited, and all was as it should be.

Periodically, we stopped to dance in circles.

The yucca baskets were also heavy, as Kerry said later.

Modern additions: Coke and cell phones.

Yes, that is a Kangol hat (in your face, Cool J).

The future groom in the center, with the band.

Andreas, brother of the groom, stops for a pose.

Oakes shortly before passing out.

Little by little, all of the bounty was passed inside -- and the band continued. The flute-player in white pants, by the way, lived for 6 years in Chicago, speaks perfect English.