Field Trip: Solo in Mindo

Last week I took my first solo trip since we arrived in Ecuador. Justin and I have more family time this year than ever before which has been wonderful, but we have almost very little time alone, which can be trying. So, we decided that we each should go away for a few days to just relax, bird and do what ever we wanted. I returned to Mindo with a group of expats from Cotacachi, a town near us with a pretty large expat community. We traveled in a private bus which was a nice luxury for me and allowed me to jump out early to spend the afternoon with our friend Jill Sare. She was coffee farm/dog sitting near Mindo. While touring the property with a large number of dogs in tow, I fell in love with a young pup named Manchas who almost returned home with me. His owner leaves him to protect the pigs from wild animals and expects him to kill what ever he needs to eat. So, he is pretty skinny. He is also really sweet. Who knows, perhaps I'll have to make a clandestine visit later in the trip.

Jill Sare and some of the dogs

Manchas- I really wanted to bring him home with me.

On my first morning in Mindo, we went up into the cloud forest to do some zip lining. I was looking forward to this but an unexpected migraine grounded me. I birded and watched everyone's bags while they flew over the ravine. I got to see some new species though so it wasn't a total loss.  Instead of taking the taxi back with everyone else, I decided to walk the few kilometers down to the hotel. I enjoy living in Otavalo, but it sure felt good to spend some time in the country where all the roads are dirt, wildlife abounds and I can walk for miles and only see a few other people. I'll go zip lining on the next trip. 

Cotacachi crew ready for zip lining

Beau from Michigan

Your brake

Steve from Atlanta

borrowed photo of lemon-rumped tanager

borrowed photo of the scaly-throated foliage gleaner

 Mindo is at a lower elevation than Otavalo (1,250 meters), is warmer, and right now is in the rainy season so it is incredibly lush. It feels like anything stuck in the ground will grow and the locals tell me that that is just about true. The downside of this is that residents have to constantly battle mold and rot. Being a visitor, I just got to experience the lush landscape and leave the difficult battles to others. There is a lot to be said for being a tourist.

The chocolate tour

Mindo isn't just a hotspot for birders, it is also home to some really good artisanal chocolate makers. I participated in one of the tours (the one that let you eat all of the chocolate at the end.) While living in Costa Rica justin and I learned how to make chocolate so none of the steps were new to me, but I enjoyed it none the less. Also, unlike the Costa Rica experience where the process to make a cup of hot chocolate took three weeks, we got to enjoy cups of hot, dark, chocolate within a half hour. In addition, they provided huge plates of fresh fruit to dip into the chocolate. 

cacao bean filled with the seeds to make chocolate

Cacao beans after fermentation and roasting

Yummy

The owner had a skateboard that he made for mountainous dirt road riding. I think this might be what we need in Huntington.

Early Morning Bird Tour

Perhaps the best part of my trip to Mindo was the morning I got up at 4:30 to go birding with Two other people from our group and Danny Jumbo, a local guide. He picked us up in his pickup and drove us to the farm of Angel Paz. His farm and the surrounding cloud forest is one of the best places to see the Andean cock of the rock. The road up to his farm was reminiscent of Ireland road in April. Even though we were in a four wheel drive truck, we had to back down the road for a second attempt in a few particularly muddy spots. On the way down, we passed the graders and I had a tinge of homesickness. I'm afraid I don't have very many bird pictures to share. In a very uncharacteristic move, I left my camera in the car and only carried my binoculars. 

Andean cock of the rock-Not my photo 

Pedido de Mano

Our neighbors own a tienda (store) two blocks away, and one to check out the stores in the neighborhood, I patronized it early on.  Segundo, the proprietor, his two sons and wife all work there, and we all became quickly acquainted.  When I told him of my visa woes early in our feriado, Segundo offered assistance immediately.  "Don't worry about it... you worry to much."  He knows the mayor of Otavalo and actually drove me to His honor's house on two occasions.  Whether the mayor could help me with visas or not was irrelevant; Segundo was willing.  

Segundo is a spry man with a quick laugh and an infectious smile.  It's almost impossible not to like him immediately.  At the store I had many talks with him, his wife, and both sons, Andreas and Orlando.  Though very traditional Kichwa, Orlando and I are Facebook friends as well, and when he invited our family to his engagement party, there was no way we were going to turn down the honor.  

What follows is a pictorial documentary of Orlando's Pedido de Mano, the formal request for the hand of his novia, or girlfriend, for marriage.  The Pedido de Mano is a Kichwa tradition that dates back in the 1,000s of years, though there are plenty of modern updates, including cars, cell-phones, and coca-cola.  The prospective groom's family, friends, and neighbors (the whole village in antiquity) packs up a huge load of food and music and marches to the novia's family's house to regale her and her family with gifts.  

As always, the pictures look better as a slide show -- click on one to start it.  Thanks for looking! 

Cuy, or guinea pigs, are a delicacy here, and a big part of the groom's offering to his future inlaws.

This guy was the "puro man" -- later at the dance, he proffered the national liquor to all takers.

Poles are readied for the chickens and the cuy (guinea pigs).

Cavia porcellus, though related to pets in North America is actually more closely related to a wild version native to South America. It is hugely important both historically as a food source and currently ceremonially.

Kerry and Sylvia presenting Segundo some homemade chocolates.

The Andean folkloric music.  I assume the fiddle came later.  Some groups include a stand-up bass, though mobility is a virtue with these guys.

While working on the cuy string, one was bent on escaping.

Beer, and other beverages, are shared communally in Otavalo (and elsewhere).  One guy usually pours into a communal cup.  He continues around the circle until the beer (or the people) are exhausted.

This guy was an expert at catching runaway cuy.

The bounty headed for the party.  Also included: at least 500 pounds of potatoes.

Oh I wish I'd caught her with eyes open.  Otavaleñas are renowned for their beauty, at every age.

Here's the view from the bed of a pickup.

Oh I wish I'd caught her with eyes open.  Otavaleñas are renowned for their beauty, at every age.  

Some 25 people rode in this camioneta.

A dozen chickens on a pole weigh more than you might think.

At one point the cars stopped, and we proceeded on foot.  The band led the way.

A car, driven by what I'm guessing was a teenager, tried to pass the procession.  When Segundo tried to move everyone over  to the side to let the youngster pass, a couple of older gentlemen took him aside.  In effect, the translation was this: No, he'll have to respect the procession and the tradition and wait.  Segundo saw the sense in this.  The musicians played on, and we danced.  The guy in the car waited, and all was as it should be.

Periodically, we stopped to dance in circles.  

The yucca baskets were also heavy, as Kerry said later.

Modern additions: Coke and cell phones.

Yes, that is a Kangol hat (in your face, Cool J).

The future groom in the center, with the band.

Andreas, brother of the groom, stops for a pose.

Oakes shortly before passing out.

Little by little, all of the bounty was passed inside -- and the band continued.  The flute-player in white pants, by the way, lived for 6 years in Chicago, speaks perfect English.

Neighbors looking on.

Officially, Orlando pops the question, with a rabbit for a gift.

The response is easy to translate.

The  bounty, I assume part of the wedding party the next week.

And the musicians keep it rolling.