Field Trip: Amazonia -- Tena and Misahualli, Napo

What follows is a photo story of our little trip to the Amazon region, a story w/124 photos!  Specifically, we started in the colonial frontier town of Tena, which is in the Napo province.  After stopping in Misahualli, a mostly Kichwa town, we headed to a community run jungle lodge called Suchipakari for three days, before returning to Tena for another couple of days.  

Many of the photos have commentary, but they look better as a slide show.  (Sorry, regular readers, for being redundant -- but we spend a lot of time on these pictures, and we want you to enjoy them to the fullest!)

After a six-ish hour bus tour, which included a standing on the side of the road in the rain with bags waiting for the  second bus leg, which was supposed to save us time, we were happy to put in at Tena for the night.   On Brother Pete's recommendation, we went to his friends' hostel called Brisas del Rio (river breezes), which sits right at the confluence of two beautiful rivers: the Tena and the Pano.  As soon as we said that we were ADPs (Amigos de Peter), we were in the family with Dona Berta, the super nice and friendly hostel owner.   

We didn't have any concrete plans, but by the next morning, we were standing on the "beaches" at Misahualli, a mostly indigenous community a half an hour taxi from Tena, which sits on a fork between the Misahualli river and the mighty Napo.  On the way Alfonzo, our taxi driver and Misahualli resident, asked whether we'd like to meet the local (capuchin) monkeys.  Of  course we did!

Mischievous and famous, the local troupe of monkeys here look docile.  At the time of this shot, however, several were ripping apart a roof in search of food.  Alfonzo said that he'd left a window open one morning as well, and he returned to a house turned upside down by the monkeys.  They love eggs and will jump on you for one.  We were happy to hang back a bit.

The little one sure reminded me of baby Sylvia.

After visiting the Misahualli monkeys, we headed out to our jungle lodge, Suchaipakari.  While the rivers are the way to travel, there is also an extensive network of backroads on some of the smaller rivers.  Pictured: red bananas.

This is the end of the road, or the beach at the end of the road, a 20 minute hike along the stream to the lodge.

The commons.  The lodge is a Kichwa (indigenous) family run operation.  It's a co-op in the true sense.  Everyone puts in and everyone benefits.  "Family," in fact, seemed to describe the whole community -- there wasn't really a distinction between immediate and village.  At first we thought that Ruben, the first guy we met, was in charge, but we learned that there is no real boss.  It seemed to run very smoothly.

The main lodge, complete with two olympic-sized slate pool tables!

Oakes learned to play connect four.  The serious look of concentration here.

Full moon on the first night.

At Suchipakari they really packed the days full, which was fine with us.  On our first day, we went tubing, and then for a hike.  Here, we're checking out a termite nest.   There are tons of them all over the jungle.  Some of the indigenous people knock them off and throw them into streams and ponds "to feed the fish."

Mmmm.  Termites up close.

The famous "walking palm".  Here you can see the newer, shinier shoot, and the direction the plant is headed over time (toward the light.)

Our guide Eduardo had some eagle eyes.  He paused to point out this cat track, probably made by an ocelot or smaller margay.  Hard to make out, but if you step back you can see it.

Later, we visited another Kichwa community.  Here's an ocelot they had in a pen.  It's about the size of a small Lab.

Eduardo nabbed this Ruby Poison-dart frog.  Oakes held it for a second.  We're glad he didn't lick it.

The family shot in front of a giant Ceiba tree.  Another famous one near Misahualli is said to take 25 people, hand in hand, to circle the base of the tree.

Tarzan practice.  We all wore rubber boots... for the mud... mostly.

The next day, we hit the boats.  The writing here says, "no bote... basura en el rio" -- don't throw garbage in the river.

But first we had to hike 40 minutes through the jungle to meet a boat downstream, as far as the driver could make it up.  Here's Sylvia with her big buddy Maddy from Calgary.

After heading down our smaller tributary, we hit the open Napo.  What a spectacular river.   Still, we were on a narrow point, relatively speaking!

Adult life-vests had to do.

Gold miners were pretty common.  These little home-made pontoon rigs with generators were all over the place.  Carlos, our guide, said that they pull as much as 4 oz out at a time.  

Another canoe boat passing.

Our first site was a river community where we'd get a tour of traditional medicinal plants and hunting, trapping devices/techniques.

A resident coati

Our tour guide with an ayahuasca vine, used by shamans traditionally to enter the dream-world.  Now popular with tourists who "want to see their future," there are plenty of shamans around who will take you on a trip.  "But you have to be careful.  You don't want the plant to control you."

An ocelot trap, among a dozen other animal-specific types.

A canoe model and various fish-traps to the right

The villagers raise turtles, in part for food, but also for instruments.  Song and dance are an integral part of any ceremony here in Amazonia.  The turtle shells have a nice wood-block sound.

Big daddy lurking

A capibara, basically a big guinea pig.  Like 40 lbs of pig.   

A white throated toucan

Our second stop included a "chicha" demonstration, a fermented yucca drink integral to the community.

Here our presenter is explaining that in old times, women of the village chewed the yucca to soften it and spat it into the bowl.  She took pains to explain that now they use the water used to boil the yucca rather than the traditional saliva.  The yucca mash is then wrapped in a banana leaf to ferment for three or four days before being used as a drink for every meal.  If left longer, it's an alcoholic beverage.

Here, the women of the village perform the chicha ceremonial dance.  All rituals have a dance and song element.  Two women are playing percussion and singing while the others dance.  They dance for births, deaths, and everything in between.

These women are part of a cooperative which includes the whole village -- but also everyone in the surrounding area.  Our lodge always brings tours here to support the effort.  The educational demonstrations support the whole community, and the whole community participates in the project, "not just the women, but the men, and the children."

After teaching us the steps, the "women" of our group were invited to participate.

After the dance, we -- or Kerry -- got to hold a boa.

Berries are used as face paint.

A gourd tree, where the fruit sprouts right out of the trunk.

Kerry found this in the bathroom of the main lodge.  "It's not poisonous," they said, nonplussed.

Sylvia's calm face...

...and ferocious face.

A ripe cacao fruit -- something any chocolate lover should recognize.

We had a chocolate making demonstration.   Here Oakes is stirring the cacao beans, already dried, and soon to be toasted.

"Everyone who wants some has to help."

After toasting, the beans are ground.

And ground...

And put on the flame with milk.

Oakes in a rare moment of reflection.  His other speed is ON 99% of the time.

The payoff.

Next morning's bird hike, a strangler fig working its magic on a hapless tree.

Leaf bug and spikey bug.  One of them I didn't mind on my pant leg.

The Napo region had just experienced some serious weather, floods and winds.  the community lodge is keen on protecting standing trees, but blowdowns however are a boon.   

Man sanding a new boat.

After Suchipakari, we headed back to our friends' hostel in Tena.  The next day we decided to head to an animal rescue zoo called El Arca.  

The first things we met were the parrots.

Oakes, Sylvia, and Kerry volunteered to hold the parrots, and I took pictures.

We thought we were moving on when this one jumped on my back out of nowhere, much to my surprise.  Turns out he was after the bananas hanging off my back.  I'd hung them there so they wouldn't get squished.

So I gave hime the banana.

A mournful looking kinkajou.

We love leaf-cutter ants.  Had to stop the guided tour to check them out.

An ex-pat Galapagos tortoise.

A resident young monkey named Pancho, maybe a white-bellied spider monkey.

Pancho picking up food and teasing the caged monkeys.

Animal boy tames Pancho.

Mono a mano.

A sad photo.  But all animals in El Arca are getting second chances, as it were.

Our Swiss guide was not the most knowledgable person.  Her favorite answer to our questions was, "I don't know."  Which was fine because Kerry was just testing her and knew everything anyway.  There was one parrot that you could hold and others you couldn't because they bite.  The kids wanted to hold the parrots one more time, but our guide picked up the wrong one.  Oakes was nipped, but unfazed; Sylvia wouldn't go near them after.

Just across the street from the zoo -- in the middle of nowhere -- it just so happens there's a swimming pool, open to locals, located on one of the most beautiful rivers we've ever seen.  You can see why the region is a kayaker's Mecca.

A swim?  Absolutely!

After monkey, parrots, and a good swim in the Amazon heat and sun, we were all pretty hungry after hopping the bus 16K back to Tena.  So we went for spaghetti.  Each plate must've had 10lbs of pasta.  We took some home.

After a good night's sleep (four people, three single beds, ha), we were ready to head back to the more comfortable clime of the Sierras.  Our host, both hostel owner and farmer, then invited us to come check out his farm.  Not having anything in our datebook, we said, "of course!"

Kerry rode shotgun, and Oakes and Sylvia and I gladly hopped in the bed of the pickup for the ride to the farm 25 minutes outside of Tena.  We were greeted by an assortment of Dalmatians and weiner dogs, both of which our entrepreneurial host Don Amable raised to sell.

Among other negocios, Don Amable has nine tilapia ponds -- pretty much supplying the entire town of Tena.

Spawn

Fruits with sugar pods inside.  Perfect for sticking your face into them, and then going for a swim.

Kerry: "It's a good thing those puppies are so far away.... or I'd go back and get one."

A human puppy.

Wool-less sheep -- very cute, but bound for someone's curry.   Only 6 mos to maturity.  Don Amable says he sells to restaurants, and maybe it's bigger in the Amazon region, but I've yet to see lamb on the menu.

"Puente de Indiana Jones"

Don Amable said, "have a swim, I'll be back down in half an hour or so."  Going on an hour here.

The boys.  Skin tones may vary.

Not really sure what to say for this one.  Maybe Sylvia being Sylvia.

Some time later, our host came back, a bit bloodied but nonchalant.  One of his cows was giving birth, and the calf was stuck.  So he had to deliver it.  Took a few extra minutes.  No worries.  What a lovely place to linger.

The morning of our departure, before the farm, I headed across the Tena and Pano rivers to do a little birdwatching on "La Isla," which isn't an island at all, but a peninsula.  A year ago, a flood knocked out the bridge to this little paradise within the Tena city limits.  

Since they'd built a rock bridge across the river for work trucks, I just walked across in knee-deep waters.  Found this old tower, which  would have been cordoned off in the US.  Here, it was left open.  I headed up and birded for awhile.  Saw Silver-beaked Tanagers and Blue-greys.  Beautiful.  But I made sure to step on the joists!

Some of the flora on the deserted La Isla.

Owner of the Brisas, Dona Berta has a granddaughter who was powerless to resist the play skills of Sylvia and El Oakes.  We were invited to share their private pool.  Ariana was asking for them as soon as we woke up.

Parting shot: rebuilding the tower and bridges to La Isla, directly across from our hotel.  The shot is taken from the river.  Crews worked at night setting concrete and welding, understandably given the Amazonian heat.  It will be a great addition to town once complete.